A good fixed-blade knife is the most versatile tool in the woods: it carves tent pegs and feather sticks, splits kindling, prepares food and strikes a ferro rod. For survival and bushcraft, a simple, sturdy knife you can sharpen in the field beats any gadget with a compass in the handle.
We compared knives on the steel and how easy it is to sharpen, the tang (how far the blade runs into the handle), blade length and shape, the sheath, and value.
Best overallMorakniv Companion (stainless)Check price
Best value tough knifeMorakniv Companion Heavy Duty (carbon)Check price
Best full-tang knifeGerber StrongArm Fixed BladeCheck price
Best classicKA-BAR USMC Fighting/Utility KnifeCheck price
Morakniv Companion (stainless)
For: almost everyone's first, and often only, outdoor knife
- Blade4.1", Sandvik 12C27 stainless
- Thickness2.0 mm
- Weight3.9 oz with sheath
- Made inSweden
The knife bushcraft instructors hand to beginners, and one of the most-reviewed fixed blades on Amazon. It's light, takes a very sharp Scandinavian edge that is easy to keep sharp on a stone, and has a grippy handle and a clip-on sheath. The stainless steel resists rust.
It isn't full tang and the blade is thin, so it's a carving and camp knife rather than a tool for splitting logs.
What we like
- Very sharp and easy to sharpen
- Light and inexpensive
- Rust-resistant stainless
Watch out for
- Not full tang: don't baton heavy wood
- Basic plastic sheath
Morakniv Companion Heavy Duty (carbon)
For: a Mora that will take harder work
- Blade4.1", carbon steel
- Thickness3.2 mm
- Weight4.8 oz
- WarrantyLimited lifetime
The same proven design with a 3.2 mm blade, about 60% thicker than the standard Companion, and a bigger handle, so it copes with heavier camp chores. The carbon steel takes a fine edge and strikes a ferro rod well, but wipe and oil it to stop rust.
What we like
- Much thicker blade
- Carbon steel sharpens easily
- Still inexpensive
Watch out for
- Carbon steel rusts without care
- Not full tang
Gerber StrongArm Fixed Blade
For: batoning wood and hard use
- TangFull
- Steel420HC, Cerakote coated
- GripRubberised diamond texture
- SheathMulti-mount, MOLLE
A full-tang knife built for the heavy work a Mora shouldn't do, with a coated 420HC blade that resists corrosion, a rubberised grip, and a sheath that mounts on a belt, horizontally or on MOLLE webbing. It's widely reviewed and backed by an 85-year-old maker.
What we like
- Full tang for batoning
- Corrosion-resistant coating
- Versatile sheath
Watch out for
- Several times the price of a Mora
- 420HC needs more frequent sharpening than premium steels
KA-BAR USMC Fighting/Utility Knife
For: a big, legendary fixed blade with a leather sheath
- Length11.9" overall
- SheathLeather
- Edge20° angle
- Made inUSA
The US Marine Corps' knife since the Second World War, still made in the USA, with a leather sheath. It has the highest rating of any knife we shortlisted. At nearly 12 inches long it's bigger than the 4- to 6-inch blade we suggest for most survival work, and harder to use for fine carving, so check your local knife laws before carrying it.
What we like
- Iconic, very durable
- Made in the USA
- Leather sheath
Watch out for
- Long for fine work
- Carry restrictions in some places
Morakniv Craftline Basic 511 (carbon)
For: a spare knife in every kit for the price of a sandwich
- Blade3.6", carbon steel
- Weight3.9 oz
- WarrantyLimited lifetime
A no-frills Mora utility knife with a carbon blade, a rubber handle and a combi-sheath. It's inexpensive enough to keep one in the car, the kitchen drawer and every go-bag.
What we like
- Very inexpensive
- Easy to sharpen
- Made in Sweden
Watch out for
- Short blade
- Carbon steel needs oiling
What makes a good survival knife
- A full tang (the steel runs the full length of the handle) is the strongest construction, needed for batoning wood. A partial tang is fine for carving and lighter work.
- Blade length of 4 to 6 inches is the sweet spot: long enough to split kindling, short enough for fine carving.
- Carbon or stainless steel. Carbon steel takes a sharp edge and is easy to sharpen, and its square spine strikes a ferro rod well, but it rusts if you don’t wipe and oil it. Stainless steel resists rust and needs less care.
- A flat or Scandinavian grind is easy to sharpen on a stone; a “Scandi” edge is a favourite for carving.
- A good sheath that holds the knife securely, ideally with a drain hole.
Know the law
Knife laws vary by state and city, including blade-length limits for carry. Check the rules where you live and travel before carrying a fixed blade.
How we rate
We score every pick out of 10 on four things, weighted for what matters when the power is out or the trail is long: whether it does the job when you need it (40%), meaning a filter's rated capacity and what it removes, a radio's reception and charging options, a kit's contents rather than its piece count; build and reliability (25%), including seals, batteries and shelf life and what owners report after months in a closet or a pack; ease of use under stress (20%), whether it can be set up in the dark, with cold hands, by someone who has never used it; and value (15%).
We have not tested these products ourselves. We read the manufacturer's specifications, certifications and instructions and look for the patterns in verified owners' reviews, both the praise and the recurring complaints. No brand pays for placement, and a commission cannot buy a higher rating. When a pick changes, we will say so on this page.
Frequently asked questions
What size survival knife is best?
A fixed blade of 4 to 6 inches suits most people: big enough to split kindling and small enough for fine work.
Is carbon steel or stainless better for a survival knife?
Carbon steel is easier to sharpen and strikes a ferro rod well, but rusts without care. Stainless needs less maintenance. Both make good survival knives.
Why are Mora knives so popular?
They are inexpensive, take a very sharp edge and are easy to sharpen, which is why many bushcraft instructors recommend them as a first knife.
